SPECS
Horsepower
128 HP
Torque
110 LB-FT
Curb Weight
2100 LB
Drivetrain
Rear Wheel Drive
Engine Size
1.8 L
Transmission Type
Manual
MPG (City/Highway)
28 MPG
VEHICLE STORY

Adam's posts
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While I'm waiting for <100 degree days to flash the ECU with a new tune (from DIY Auto Tune to address the clutch-in idle parameters), here are a few historical pictures. This is shortly after I bought it in 2006. As mentioned elsewhere, it was British Racing Green with one unpainted black fender. The BRG paint was chipping off in areas, exposing the original red underneath. It had the 90-92 daisies ("mazda" on center caps instead of logo). I

[]Andrew Johnson

Looking good!

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Now that the car is running, I've found a few minor problems. Most are tuning related, and I will hopefully resolve them by adjusting the AFR, VE, and timing tables. One is a bit more annoying - the oil return line is leaking. I am 99% sure it's the fitting on the hose rather than in the oil pan. It's annoying because I paid good money for the hose and end fittings, and it looks to be leaking where

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[]Matt Heeley

If I may make a suggestion, if you weld, take a piece of thick-walled Al tubing and put a bend in it to point it towards your oil drain port, weld it to the turbo drain flange, and then either weld it right onto the flange on the pan (hard pipe) or use a really short section of high temp silicone hose to connect it. If you're using just silicone, or braided stainless hose, it will fail, probably at the worst possible time. Could even cause a fire. Maybe more of an issue for me with rotary engine heat, but braided stainless is often the worst in high heat areas like turbo drains. That hose will get all crispy inside and fail but the outside will still look good.

[]Adam Bradley

Sadly, I do not weld and don't know anyone who does. I like your suggestion - just not sure who can build a hard line like that for me. For now, I am planning to replace it with an ordinary high-temp oil hose (but not braided) with press-in/clamp-on fittings.

[]Matt Heeley

Another option is to bend some 5/8" steel or stainless tubing into the right shape and borrow / buy an AN flare tool. They're not too expensive if you do your own work. You'll use it a lot. Then it's a matter of a -10 drain flange for the turbo and a -10 tubing nut. You probably have to remove the compressor housing to access the fitting with a wrench. That might be an easier fix. Otherwise, for safety I'd be replacing that drain line at the beginning of the driving season and inspecting it frequently.

[]Matt Heeley

Same thing with wastegate lines. Your internally-gated turbo wouldn't need hard lines to the actuator but it's a good idea to put a heat sleeve on your tubing so they don't melt / get crispy / blow out pinholes with heat over time. It took me all of a couple of days of tuning and doing pulls to melt my wastegate lines. Big difference is rotary heat and external wastegate but still...

[]Adam Bradley

I appreciate the advice. I had thought about sleeving my heater core lines, but not the oil return or the wastegate actuator.

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I replaced the non-curing thread sealant with RTV and waited 24 hours. It was a looong 24 hours. After, I turned the key - and it started after only a few cranks! It sounded good, too! I spent a couple of hours playing with the AFR and VE tables in TunerStudio. It's idling, more or less, and seems to accelerate well. I've driven it around the block a few times and used the VE Analyze function of MegaLogViewer to

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