Disabled car enthusiast who wont let my handicaps get in the way of my passion.
2003 Mitsubishi Outlander
LS Fwd 4dr SUV (2.4L 4cyl 4A)
Optima batteries -
good or bad?
recommend to use or stay away?
I want to hear any and all opini
So I need to chose a battery for my rally car. Needs to be good for tons of abuse, and i'll be runn
Guys, i need some help on finalizing a set up for new gravel tires and rally wheels.
Holy crap, Morimoto HID equipment is so far ahead of that Kensun garbage on amazon...worth every pe
Guys, does anyone know where I can get shocks and struts geared toward rally/offroad for a 2003 Mit
Sorry I can't be more help with this. It's out of my wheelhouse. Have you tried getting help from the Wheelwell Concierge service? You can email them, or hit them via chat in the 'Shop' section.
I can't find anyone in Illinois that tunes imports...not sure why. I want to hire a professional to
Depending on how much you are willing to spend, people have been known to ship their cars to tuners in other states. I remember back when I had my first B5 S4, we had one of the few tuners in the world who did line by line, custom tunes and also didn't solder in a chip. People shipped him cars from all over the place because he would get the job done right regardless of their setup. I don't know much about Mitsubishis but I do agree with you about making sure its done right. I've seen a lot of cars with a lot of expensive parts that were not nearly as fast as the should have been because of bad tunes.
Shop around there are a couple places in IL to get tuned. AMS Performance is one of the best. Now if you want them to do the actual build (i.e. creating a turbo setup for a car that didn't come with one and then tune it), I am not sure that they do that. Do you have a SOHC 4G64? There is a swap where you change the head to a DOHC from an Evo and that will allow you to bolt on the turbo manifold, but from that point, nothing is easy. It requires a standalone ECU and a lot of custom work. You could ask around about that and see if it might get you some leads.
Yeah, I wanted to do that head swap. That would allow the turbo assembly to work a lot easier. I would have to have them to and everything though. I figured if I got it done by a professional hopefully less things will go wrong
Totally understand, still keep asking around. Maybe you can find a shop that is willing to do the work if you source the parts.
Where in Illinois are you? There's quite a few shops in Chicagoland region. AMS is probably one of the most well known in the country, they'd certainly tune Evo's.
Joliet Illinois - I don't have an Evo, it's the same a 4G64 like in the eclipse. Shops just tell me after Mitsubishi stopped making evos, tuners stopped bothering getting equipment for Mitsubishi cars.
Ah, I see. I wonder if it's just because it's not a hugely popular tuning platform like the Evo. That's a tough one, you may be having to pioneer alot of the modifications yourself. That said, there's tons of shops around, you may just have to reach out to a few. Touge Factory, Sound Performance, P&L Motorsports, are a few that come to mind.
Well, DSM tuners have been doing it for many years, but the DSM community is kinda few and far between too.
That's surprising, I guess I didn't think it would evaporate so quickly.
If you can do enough of the work to get it running on an AEM Series 2 EMS (you want 30-6310, apparently), you should be able to find a shop that does AEM work. This isn't going to be a cake walk, or particularly cheap, but it will be more appealing to the tuner shop. Make sure you get a GOOD wideband kit and proper digital boost gauge. If you roll in with a bunch of ebay gauges in a car that they already don't want to touch, they'll tell you to fuck off.
So I was thinking about getting a turbo for my engine. Its a 4G64 NA SOHC 2.4L
I know I'm looking
It’s much more sensible to start with a DOHC 4G63 turbo engine.
The outlander is actually built off the Lancer frame. Could I actually just... Swap the engine?
I did some digging and found an ancient website that may help. Typically, you're looking at an exhaust manifold and downpipe that fits a turbo to your vehicle. A bunch of intake plumbing. Possibly some sensor swaps/modifications and even a new ECU. Oil and PCV plumbing. Obviously, the point of least resistance is to find a compatible standalone ECU and start throwing money at it.web.archive.org/web/20140903045313/http://4g64.150m.com:80/turbo.html
awesome! they list just about all the parts needed. This will be one spicy upgrade
So recently I had very spongy breaks. Turns out the pads were the reasons.
Got new pads and Rotor
Update - it was a sticky piston on a caliper.
Yeah I'm also thinking brake booster. Could be a leaky hose from the manifold or the booster going bad. Does it happen under similar conditions every time? Can you hear any hissing or whistling noises from near the booster?
First thing that comes to mind is maybe a brake booster issue, but are they stopping ok just feeling more firm? Or are they firm in that you really have to stand on them to stop?
they stop fine, but sometimes randomly I have to apply much more force (not standing on them force) but enough to where its noticeable.
I would check to see if anything is binding; caliper pins all sliding free and lubed, pads not getting bound in their slides, etc. Check that brake booster and it's vacuum connection too. This spongy feeling is happening during normal driving? You're not talking about track use, or heavier use where they're heating up?
Opposite of spongy. But all good things to take a look at
Oh yeah, that's what I meant, not sure why I referred to as spongy. Oops
Break performance rotors and Akebono pad review
first of many auto vLogs. Upgrading the lights
Whats your opinion on FWD Rally cars?
Projector retrofit with halos from "Crazy the God"
I've always wanted projectors. For so long I've
My engine bay
Guys, When I bought from Break Performance, I had never heard of them, but apparently they have a v
I. Love. This. OIL!
I been using it for the past years or two and it feels great in the car. 135,0
If I were rich all my fluids in all my cars would be royal purple but sadly I'm not so run shell Rotella. Great oil for such a good price but royal purple is next level for sure. It's hard to justify almost twice the price though.
My Outlander has a reflector housing. I want to upgrade to a projector housing.
Does this kit loo
*update*I got them! got the halos and parking lights running. Just waiting on a 9007 to H4 converter cable to run the HID's, but so far this is turning out AWESOME!!!
I would go to autozone and see what’s available for your car and then I would go through the options they give you and look them up go by price and what you think.
I wouldn't buy from eBay unless you can easily return it without penalty. Amazon is great for that. If you buy it, install it, and test it, it should be very easy to see which light is superior. Poor Man Mods has done a ton of headlight testing. If the light is worse, return it and try another
That's the thing - I've never seen anyone else sell reflector housings for my vehicle
Then I would try them and if they aren't better, return them. Only thing you'll lose is some time.
I would contact the manufacturer directly to see about the return policy and order from them, it's the same price. I went and found the website for you, hopefully that will make your decision easier! crazythegod.com/car-brand/mitsubishi/crazythegod-outlander-first-generation-2003-2005-wagon-5d-ccfl-projector-headlight-headlamp-black-europe-h4-for-mitsubishi-lhd-7172.html
It's hard to know, I'd do some research to be sure first. I've heard good things from theretrofitsource.com , and they use good brand name components like Morimoto. Lighting is one of the many products that have a market flooded with cheap, low quality parts, tread carefully!
Is forced induction a bad idea on an aluminium engine block?
its a 4G64 SOHC
Sir, the 4G64 is not an aluminum block... it's cast iron........ And they take boost...VERY well.4G63 head off of a 1990-1999 Eclipse GST/GSX Talon/Laser and you've got a cool setup.
I don’t think it would cause enough flow to crack the block so I see where you could question it but I think you would be okay
It's not bad just by virtue of the block being aluminum, but your limits may be different. I know from talking with someone from a shop that does runway/top speed builds on Evo's that the iron block 4g63 of earlier generations had a much higher ceiling than the final Evo's 4b11 aluminum block that replaced it, but they still pulled immense power out of it with loads of boost.
I wouldn't exactly say that it's a bad idea. There are plenty of modern cars that use aluminum blocks and are turbo'd from the factory with 0 issues. If all of your internals are stock though, I'd say keep the boost relatively low and make sure you have a good tuner to get it running the way it should. If you want more power then expect to spend some money on engine internals. Things like pistons and connecting rods (and possibly even block guards depending on the engine) will significantly improve your engines durability.
So here is what the power stop Z23 pads and drilled slotted rotors looked like after 15 days and no
I understand parts companies deal with customers who are trying to rip them off constantly, but when someone comes to them with a defective product and they tell them to more or less f-off..... I hate that.
Wow, that seems pretty bad. Not enough heat shouldn't be an issue for a pad designed as a sporty street pad. Did you reach out to Power Stop? Any warranty consideration? It is possible you got a defective set.
they refused a refund. Originally they wanted to send only new pads, but after showing them how bad the situation was and comparing them to the Z16's i still had, they sent a new rotor and pads. In the end I just went with Break Performance Rotors and Akebono Ultra Premium Ceramics. SSSOOOOO much better now!
I'd be curious to see if it was a case of just getting a defective set, but I can see you not wanting to chance going through more of the same. At least you got things sorted. 👍
Brake performance drilled slotted vented rotors, and Akebono Ultra Premium ceramic pads. Already in
What your opinion on street racing?
To me, it feels irresponsible and might be giving the car com
Street racing is illegal for a reason. More than once, people's lives have been put at risk due to reckless street racers. Now I do admit that I drive faster than allowed from time to time, but rarely over long distances. Some quick pulls or some hard turns. Some spirited driving on empty (or nearly empty) roads. But for sure, street racers will make the car community look bad.
Have done it, shouldn't do it. Don't like seeing it, feel like a prick after doing it. I also think departments across the country used it as a ploy to extract millions in federal funding during the time of its heightened popularity.
This sounds like it needs a back in my day response... So back when I was in high school, we had a local street that people raced from light to light on in a nearby town. It was wide, it was flat, it was quiet at night when we were there, and the lights were about 1/4 mile apart. The police were always there to reign people in but they just supervised as long as nobody got too crazy and was safe. I thought that this was amazing!Now, I see kids weaving between cars on non-straight, busy sections of road. I'm sure there's less space available, less people interested, less cultural support, more anti-car sentiment from various sectors, but this is still just irresponsible. I draw the line at if you're stupid can impact innocent bystanders, if it can then its a bad idea. However, if two friends want to blow up their cars drag racing on an abandoned stretch of road, I don't really care.
Yep, this is exactly what I mean. Being dumb and hurting yourself is one thing, but hurting others is really inexcusable.
It's only dangerous if you get caught! Wait, that's not how it works.
If it's a bunch of people finding a secluded road and doing their own "quarter mile" vs. runs, I get the attraction but it's still relatively unsafe to anyone in attendance. If it's on busier public roads, it's incredibly unsafe and stupid. The worst version I see of this, is so called "highway pulls". Sustained 100mph+ speeds on public highways is ridiculously stupid. And even from a racing standpoint it proves little. Overall, a real track event is both safer and more enjoyable.
In my opinion it just kinda depends in all aspects🤷🏻♀️
Might be a quick edit, but this is the goal of the Outlander I have. Right now, just doing break up
this is the color skeem of the Outlander I have. I want to add color accents in places like
Yellow! Getting compliments on your car is great, but modifications are mostly about the owner and who they are as a person, so if you like yellow, get yellow and who cares what everyone else actually thinks. But since you asked how to change the look, black out the front Mitsubishi emblem, mirrors and little spoiler and you would have a different look. You could do it cheap with PlastiDip and then take it off if you changed your mind.
Maybe a royal blue or lime green!
Called Break Performance to see when my new rotors would be shipped. No robots or menus to jump thr