SPECS
Horsepower
300 HP
Torque
375 LB-FT
Curb Weight
2850 LB
Drivetrain
RWD
Engine Size
5.8 L
Transmission Type
AOD
MPG (City/Highway)
12-15 MPG
VEHICLE STORY

Original 2 barrel 255ci V8 1980 GHIA Mustang. Notchback. Ohio car. I blew the old shit can motor first month of owning the car. I am the 3rd owner. Car was a barn find. Sold to me by a guy I work with for 700 USD. Minor rust. Mostly surface rust under the car. Upper passenger floor pan rusted through. Driver side fender had a rust hole. Welded license plate over floor pan. Planning to reinforce entire passenger side floor pan. Interior was dirty and nasty due to being owned by 2 smokers so im slowly replacing it. Gonna custom make the headboard and dash. Tossed the 7.5 rear end  and single exhaust first chance I got. Fuel tank was completely rust covered.(still haven't fixed it yet)  Original stereo was fried. Other than all that the car was MINT for an Ohio 4 eyed mustang.  Probably from being stored in a barn. K member still has factory paint on it.  Everything for the car is ebay purchased or Junkyard found. I'm not looking for perfection. I just wanted a red light to red light racing car. Lots of low to mid range power done very cheaply. It looks and smells like an old car. I love it!  Down the road : 408 stroker kit. Better and more real rust mitigation.  Roll Cage. Drag racing rims and tires. Big sound system. Drag racing suspension and k member.  MSD electrical upgrade. I have zero intention of converting to 5 lug. There are 850hp cars at the strip running 4 lug. You can buy ARP studs. Racing Diff. 31 or 33 spline axles in 4 lug. Anyone who tells you it's a requirement to upgrade to 5 lug on this platform is highly misguided. 

Discuss this build

[]Jeff Linton

Love the faded paint and vinyl top, keeper

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