SPECS
Horsepower
950 HP
Torque
850 LB-FT
Curb Weight
3829 LB
Drivetrain
All Wheel Drive
Engine Size
3.8 L
Transmission Type
Automated Manual
Standing Quarter Mile
low 9s Seconds
Zero to Sixty
2.3 Seconds
MPG (City/Highway)
24 MPG
VEHICLE STORY

Thanks for checking out my build. I think a build can only be evaluated well in the context of the objectives that went into the build and the purpose it serves in the owner's life so here is that context in my case. My Goals : Super Responsive and Versatile. My GT-R is first and for most my daily driver. I use it every day during the week to drop off my young daughters off at school on my way to work and whenever I can on the weekends if my errands permit. That being said, I only put about 3500 miles on my car a year because I live and work in the city and my commute is short. I have my wife's truck for our family vacation and heavy duty errands. Most of my longer trips in the GT-R are to the track. I try to hit a road course twice a year and I make it to the drag strip maybe 6 to 8 times a year. Cars and racing are one of my primary hobbies and I hope to make it to the track a lot more as my young kids get older. All of this is a long winded way of saying I wanted an engine/turbo set-up that would not sacrifice the excellent drivability and "fun around town" feel of my old FBO E85 set up and that would be very responsive on a road course. Improving my times at the drag strip was a nice to have secondary objective of my build but not the primary objective so I knew I wanted to stick with a 900whp+/- stock manifold set-up but overbuild everything else for reliability and in the unlikely case I ever decide to go with a bigger turbo set up. Build Path and Specs. After I owned my GT-R for a few weeks after I purchased it new in the fall of 2103 I was pretty sure I wanted to fully build it and keep it long term rather than trading it out after 2 years like I have done with my last few cars. I didn't see anything else in the market that met my versatility needs and was as much fun to drive as my GT-R and my view was (and is) that in a decade or so the R35 GT-R will be viewed as something of a high water mark for "digitally analog" Japanese sports cars if the NSX tell us anything about what is to come. I also only have garage parking for two cars so a 3rd dedicated "fun" car is not really in the cards any time in the near or midterm. This freed me up mentally to put some money into my GT-R. If I was single I would have fully built my GT-R immediately after deciding to do so but family related spending and saving put me on a staged build path that many of your are familiar with. I started my mods immediately after purchasing my GT-R with exterior stuff like a full bumper to bumper Excel ultimate paint protection wrap and some clear side markers. A few months later after my first POS check up and oil change and when I was sure there were not any factory quality control issues with my powertrain I went FBO e85 flex fuel. A year later I replaced the stock suspension with the awesome Litchfield kit and my brake lines with SS lines. About a year later I was back at the shop adding an AMS dual Omega dual brushless fuel system set up to my GT-R as one of the last intermediate steps I thought I could take before really spending a bunch of money on engine/turbo/tranny upgrades. Thinking about next steps was hard but I knew it would consist of a full transmission build stage or a full motor build and turbo upgrade. For those not in the GT-R game, the cost of the transmission work is really the real budget killer compared to other platforms where a clutch upgrade may be all you need for just under 4 digit hp #s. I know many split up the engine and turbo upgrades separately but that approach duplicates labor cost and downtime for the two engine drops and if you upgrade the turbos first this creates even more risk than a FBO E85 set-up to the stock block (generally consensus among GT-R owners is that anything above 600 whp / 600 wtrq puts your factory bottom end and hence your block on borrowed time). Once some very lightly used stock manifold EFR turbos (Borg Warner 6758 EFRs) and a FMIC kit feel into my lap last in fall of 2015 the engine + turbo path choice was pretty much the clincher on top of my view that safety and broken part cost mitigation warrant building the engine rather than the transmission first even at FBO e85 levels. So in January of 2015 I built my engine and added the EFR turbos and ran the car for about a year at 740 whp / 620 wtrq on E85. Had a great deal of fun but I got quite a bit of clutch slip if driven hard at the drag strip and I knew the days on my stock trans were numbered. In November of 2016 I finished my drivetrain build with a full "Shep 1K drag pack" trans build (mainly a stage 3 trans with 18 plate clutch and billet gear set and baskets + pan + diff brace). I also added DSS pro level 1000hp + rear axles at the same time since my trans was out and replaced my OEM brakes (which were shot after only 10,000 miles possibly because of some track days) with AP Racing J Hooks and Endless MX72 pads. Another key upgrade in November of 2016 was the "handling kit" from Litchfield's which is some uprated bushings and geometry change bobs and bits designed to eliminate understeer, add more tire contact patch to the ground, and make the car handle more neutrally. For those in the USA that don't know much about Litchfield's they are a big UK based import performance shop very well know for road racing builds. My full parts list is in my spec sheet but the above gives you a good idea of the key items that went into my build. In the end my conservative tune puts me at about 850 whp / 800 wtrq with more room for growth once the weather warms up and we can do some trackside refinement. At the crank I estimate about 950 hp / 850 trq +/- for those who car about that. BTW, car is stock ecu Ecutek tuned via Procom Racing in Tom's River, NJ (they also do all my mechanical work) . As of writing this I have only have had my car back for a few weeks now but it is a real riot to drive around town (makes any errand fun). I can't wait for it to warm up so I can take off my winter tire set (Pirelli Soto Zero IIs OEM sizes) and put on my new set of Toyo R888Rs (285/315 20s) and hit the track. On handling, for those who have driven GT-Rs hard and are use to RWD cars the push in a GT-R can be a little much and that is where my new set up shines. The combination of Litchfield parts is really transformative compared to a stock GT-R suspension set up (I drove a friend’s 2012 a few weeks back and it is still fresh in my mind). My shop spent a bunch of time dialing in the alignment per Litchfield specs and my car feels neutral and more planted now on hard corners. It is hard to explain but it drives more like a rear wheel drive car now; meaning I can bring the tail out and correct with a little throttle very accurately. Virtually no understeer left which took my surprise a little at first. I have had to reset my approach to steering inputs as everything is more accurate now at speed. Anyhow will share more impressions as the weather warms up and I hit the track.

Discuss this build

[]Kit Lau

Amazing build, thank you for sharing!

[]Andrew Johnson

Incredible build. Well done!

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