Gotta say. My quest to get a new daily was only successful because people hate CVTs so much. Depreciation on CVT equipped vehicles is hilarious.If you're like me and can't stand driving an automatic because the gas pedal feels disgusting, try a CVT. You might be shocked.
My F23A1 has died a death much quicker than expected. The rear main seal and the piston rings have effectively completely failed. Just used a quart of oil in 45 miles (15W-40!). So for the millionth year in a row, the Cool 90s Accord will be taking a sabbatical having suffered yet another 6 months of grueling daily driving. Time to get a backup car so I can deliberately throw a rod on the world's least reliable F23A1.Uhh...on the bright side, I got my ~$900 worth of gauges all working properly, finally.
Always a great week when you have to work on your car every evening. Not. Of course, my oil filter relocation kit leaked like hell and had to be removed. Despite giving it all it'd suffer, it was pissing oil out of the ORB fittings on the adapter plate, of all things. Yet another classic waste of my money and time. Now I get to buy and install a sandwich adapter because I spent $200 on a gauge with oil readouts for a reason.On the one bright side, and just the one, K&N HP-4001 is a direct fit for the F23A1.
Complete oil change to Mobil brand 15W-40 dino-sludge because it was on sale at Walmart. Also added an entire V8 bottle of engine restore. Installed the oil filter relocation portion of a Rev9Cooler 19 row cooler kit (didn't use the radiator) which I had from another project. Now running a K&N HP-4001 which puts me at somewhere over 5.5 quarts of oil in the entire system. Oil pressure is substantial with this setup. Never seen below 38 PSI. That's a lot of VTEC, yo.Also installed oil pressure, oil temperature, EGT, and vacuum sensors for two dual output VEI gauges that hang out with my new AEM serial gauge. I don't know if I'm going to bother updating my installed parts list for a while yet. I never intended for this car to be this legit, but here we are.My F23A1 has a fairly significant rear main seal leak and (as already established) roached piston rings. It's time to get a backup car and think about how I'm going to replace this engine.
Rebuilt the PCV system yet again and it finally idles properly. Yay! I'm not sure if that valve cover filter will hold up to being less than a playing card away from the strut bar, but it sure looks cool. A wonderful amalgamation of American hot rodding and 90s ricer garbage.
I had the brilliant idea today that if I introduced a vacuum leak, the engine would increase idle speed enough to not stall. Sure enough, I yoinked my vacuum gauge line and it settled in nicely at roughly 1050 rpm. Came home and restored the stock PCV behavior and it works again. This seems entirely obviously, except I'm pretty sure that I've had idle stall issues since long before I attempted PCV delete. Eh, whatever. It works.If the IACV is bad, it's the worst kind of bad. Is there a such thing as vacuum relief valve?
Had some work done on the Cool 90s Accord. She now has braided steel brake lines, DOT 5.1 brake fluid, and no exhaust leaks. Sounds much better now with all the extracurricular exhaust noises fixed.Compression test revealed that the rings on cylinders 2 and 3 are fried. 185-120-120-185. So basically, I make 12WHP over stock with a trashed engine. Shout out to Modified by KC.Now if you don't mind, the best Honda Accord on Wheelwell needs some more parts added to it.Coming soon: I give the car an oil change and somehow add another 10lbs to the car.
Automotive vanity and automotive health. Two things that consume all of my money.In the health department...Added 15W-40 last week. Car sounds healthy and doesn't appear to be burning it off. Good enough for the F20B5, good enough for the F23A1.I seem to have somewhat cured the low idle until stall issue mechanically. Just loosened the idle air screw. Not ideal, but it'll do until I can get enough stuff together for the car to be tuned again.D17/J-series smart coils fit the F23 perfectly. That saves me a ton of effort. No need for any sort of coil plate or fixture because it seats on the valve cover just like the stock plug boots.Installed a vacuum gauge under the hood because I wanted to check the engine's health some more. I seem to have an exhaust leak yet again, but whatever. Vacuum readings are perfect. 20inHg at idle. The gauge can read boost, so I also checked the valve cover pressure. Some pressure, but nearly 0 PSI. Excellent.In the vanity department...Installed a new battery hold down and used those stainless steel thumb screws I had from the failed valve cover project. Looks super suave.Also got a new shifter knob. It's quite amazing. Apparently it's based on the PSPEC knob (whatever that is) which was based on the ITR knob. Whatever. It looks great and matches the stock plastic texture on the center console.Installed matching headlights to go with my fog/driving/DRL light things. Can hardly wait to try them at night.
First the bad news:Car stalled out three times today despite swapping out the entire fuel rail. Spark issue? Jeez, I hope not. Dunno. Dumped in a bottle of that new fangled Chevron cleaner and another 13 gallons of gas on top of it. Car really didn't want to idle after that. Maybe the cleaner will do something...we'll see. I can't afford to keep chucking gauges on the car at the rate that I need them, and definitely in no position to convert to a distributor cap deleted system yet. What a pain.The good news:I'm seeing a lot of action in the form of new Honda Accords and them getting modded on Wheelwell. Clearly, this is my doing.
I've been very busy ricing out the Accord recently. Saturday was no different. Decided I would take a chance on trying to swap out the stock brake booster vacuum line with a custom silicone hose arrangement. The stock hose has an integrated check valve, so I had to work that out. Luckily, I already had this aluminum 1/2" check valve available.So how does it work? Dramatic improvement. If I wanted to, I could probably lock up the wheels with ease. I really want to get the brake fluid changed over to some fresh DOT 5.1.
Wasn't very fun, but the Cool 90s Accord is now super legit what with its AEM fuel rail, pressure sender, and pressure regulator. There's still something or other going on with it, but it's much better than it was, and at least I know one more thing that isn't wrong. Also, having this big honking fuel rail makes my ticking fuel injector even louder. I'd love to know the duty cycle my injectors are reaching on the current tune. I know it's higher than stock.If you're interested in doing this kind of install on your Honda (or similar), change the return line first! The stock return line doesn't fit the AEM FPR.
#StanceNation Put Yokohama AVID Touring-S 205/65-R15s on the Cool 90s Accord. Holy crap it's so much better. Handles and rides completely different. Also, having a full-size spare eliminates so much road noise. This is the tire that the four banger 6G Accord wants and needs.
Good idea: Adding an oil catch can to mitigate issues caused by excessive blow-by. Bad idea: Forgetting to check if you actually have any clearance for an oil catch can before you purchase it. Oh well. Good opportunity to recycle resources from old projects. No plumbing for now as I need a vacuum scavenger oil cap first.
What better way to celebrate the progression to your car being completely illegal to drive in California than half-assing a valve cover project? What better time to half-ass a valve cover project than when your car is dead? Chevy engine block orange and studs-that-aren't-studs. If anyone wants to try this, just know that you need to keep the studs removable because of the spark plug angle.